Upload a photo of your electric bill or type in two numbers. We compare your rate with your state's average and show cheaper ways to pay for the same power.
or
Average residential rates in cents per kilowatt-hour, all charges included, from U.S. Energy Information Administration data for mid-2026. States marked Choice let you pick your electricity supplier, which is where most of the savings are.
| Market |
|---|
Averages are revenue divided by kWh sold, so your actual rate depends on your utility, plan and season. Updated September 2026.
Most Texans pick their own provider. Find your city to see your delivery charges and calculate a plan's true all-in price, or decode your ESI ID to see which utility serves you.
Your kWh, total amount due, utility and ESI ID or account number are pulled from the bill or the numbers you enter.
Total ÷ kWh gives your all-in price per kWh, which we place against your state's average.
In deregulated states that means competitive supply plans. Elsewhere it means time-of-use rates, community solar and efficiency.
In about a third of the country, yes. In deregulated markets your local utility still owns the poles and wires and still answers outage calls, but a retail provider sells you the electricity itself. That supply charge is usually more than half your bill, and it's the part you can shop.
Full retail choice: Texas, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Illinois, New York, New Jersey, Maryland, Massachusetts, Connecticut, Delaware, Maine, New Hampshire, Rhode Island and Washington D.C.
Limited choice: Michigan, Virginia, California, Oregon and Nevada allow switching only for some customers or through capped programs.
If you've never switched, you're probably on your utility's default "price to compare" or standard offer. Competitive fixed-rate plans often beat it, but always check the contract length, early cancellation fee and whether the rate is fixed or variable.
You can't change supplier, but you can still lower the bill:
Time-of-use rates. Most large utilities now offer cheaper overnight and weekend pricing. Running the dishwasher, laundry and EV charging off-peak can cut 5–15%.
Community solar. Subscribe to a local solar farm and get bill credits worth more than you pay, usually 5–15% savings with no panels on your roof.
Efficiency. A smart thermostat, LED bulbs and sealing drafts are the cheapest kilowatt-hours you'll ever buy.
Every U.S. utility formats its bill differently, but the numbers that matter for comparing plans are always there. Find these four and you can compare any offer in under a minute.
Your real rate is the total amount due divided by kWh used. Advertised plan rates often exclude delivery charges, so compare all-in numbers whenever you can.
About 18.3 cents per kWh for homes as of mid-2026, up roughly 5% from a year earlier. Nevada, Nebraska and Utah are the cheapest; Hawaii, California and much of New England are the most expensive.
In deregulated states, households on the default utility rate often save 10–20% on the supply portion by moving to a competitive fixed-rate plan. Watch for teaser rates, monthly fees and cancellation fees.
The Electric Service Identifier is a 17- or 22-digit number unique to your meter in deregulated Texas. It's printed on your bill near your service address. The first digits identify your utility, such as CenterPoint or Oncor.
Divide your total bill by the kWh you used. $182 ÷ 1,000 kWh = 18.2¢ per kWh. This all-in figure is the fairest way to compare plans.
No. Your utility keeps delivering power over the same lines. Only the company that bills you for supply changes.
No. Numbers you type are calculated in your browser. A bill photo is only sent for reading when you press "Read my bill," and it isn't saved.